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Stopping to Smell the Roses on the TA

17 July 2024

Words: Emma Bawtree
Photos: Fiona Hosie

Turning 50 was a milestone worthy of a grand celebration for me, and an opportunity to embark on a bike adventure that’s always been on my bucket list, the Tour Aotearoa (TA). To celebrate I embraced my hard tail bike with its skinny tyres, left the family and mountain bike coaching world behind, joined up with my good friend Fi, and set out to ride the North Island section of the TA.

The TA is renowned for its breathtaking scenery, diverse landscapes and of course demanding hills. Different to those in a hurry to finish the km’s each day, Fi and I made a pact to 'stop and smell the roses' - taking time to appreciate the quiet country roads, glimpses of rural life and the peaceful roadside rest stops. We budgeted two weeks off work, pedalling an average of 100 kms each day. It was the perfect way to embrace the birthday spirit of adventure.

Preparation for such an endeavour was crucial for our enjoyment. Fi and I spent months planning and training. We researched the route, packed our gear thoughtfully, and hit the local trails to condition our bodies to withstand the daily grind of long-distance cycling. Of course you never feel like you’ve trained enough, but we figured we’d 'get fitter along the way'.

It was a feat just getting from our South Island home to the TA 'startline', but knew it would all be worth it once we hit the pedals. We flew from Nelson to Auckland, and then drove six hours to the Cape Reinga Lighthouse at the northern tip of Aotearoa. We were feeling nervous and excited as we anticipated a sunrise depart the next day.

Rolling hills was the theme for our journey through Northland, apart from the very flat day one on Ninety Mile Beach. Pulling off the road towards the beach we headed down a sandy stream bed surrounded by tall sand dunes. This was our introduction to sand riding. Our poor chains grinded away making unhappy sounds but were soon fixed with a squirt from the water bottle and re-oiling. We then rolled out along the beach for the next 84 kms towards Ahipara.

Ninety Mile Beach on your bike seemed kinda crazy but turned out to be a highlight and unique experience. We soon appreciated the friendliness of the other TA riders in pursuit of the same goal. Not a race, just a journey as we leap frogged each other along the beach, on a slight time limit to avoid the beach being stolen away by the incoming tide. We were blessed with a magic first day of weather. As we left the lighthouse behind and pedalled along the beach with the Pacific and Tasman seas on either side we felt a real sense of freedom.

Those that warned us Northland is hilly were not wrong. We were challenged by 30 degree temperatures and many steep climbs. We swam at every opportunity in rivers or the sea, cooling down and taking time to smell the roses. The constantly changing vistas and camaraderie of our fellow riders kept reminding us of why we were here. Each evening, we’d find a cozy spot to rest, shared stories with other riders and marvelled at the beauty of the country we call home.

Early mornings brought the bustle of rural towns awakening, the quiet hum of activity as shopkeepers prepared for the day, and the allure of coffee and ice cream signs. After four days of beautiful weather, kauri forests, trail fairies delivering yummy snacks, quiet back roads, catching barges and boats, we hit the metropolis of Auckland. We were soon out the other side and back onto quieter roads and the beautiful east coast scenery heading towards the Firth of Thames.

Two days of solid rain put us on the Timber Trail, a fantastic mountain bike track even when it's muddy and raining. After a quick overnight glamping stop featuring hot showers and a curry, we set off towards the Bridge to Nowhere, where our next section of singletrack beckoned us. The mystical scenes of the meandering Whanganui River at dawn were worth every ache and pain in our fatigued legs, and we enjoyed the jet boat ride which skipped us 40 km downriver.


Fi and Emma caught on the Timber Trail by Jo Wynn-Williams.

Forever in our memories are the kind and encouraging folk we met along the route, the bakery and Four Square stops for refuelling, the frequent oiling of the chain and lubing of other parts (liberal and often). The 14 day trip and the kilometres seemed to fly by as we meandered our way though the lower part of the North Island. Suddenly we were in Wellington ready to fly home.

Celebrating my 50th birthday in such a manner was more than just a personal achievement; it was a testament to the strength of friendship and the power of perseverance. The Tour Aotearoa was more than just a ride; it was a celebration of life, resilience and the beauty of NZ. As I look back on this incredible adventure, I am reminded that age is but a number, and with determination and a good friend by your side, anything is possible.

The South Island will have to wait for another year, but I can't believe how much we experienced in 14 days just on the North Island leg. The journey had been richer and more rewarding than I ever imagined, and the body and bike survived. I've discovered that the best adventures are the ones where you have no idea what you're doing, but do it anyway.

Check out the Ground Effect TA Blog for lots of top Tour Aotearoa planning tips.

3 Responses

chris ingram
chris ingram

18 July 2024

Happy memories as mine were – especially the unique and amazing 90 Mile beach with sunshine and following wind.
Best, Emma, for the equally wonderous S I when it’s time comes.

Mark Oakley
Mark Oakley

17 July 2024

Congratulations Emma and Fiona. A great story of your friendship and such a positive approach to your ride.

Glenn
Glenn

17 July 2024

Please keep including this type of content in your emails to the faithful. Great read and inspiring to think so much can be achieved in 2 weeks. Jealous of the ride…..one day.

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