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Beyond the Baobabs – Discovering Madagascar by Bike
Words & photos: Clare Harden & Bruce Telford
Madagascar, a land of lemurs, baobabs, and breathtaking biodiversity, is not your average cycling destination. But for the team at Escape Adventures NZ it’s exactly the kind of terrain that fuels our passion for bold, off-the-grid biking. In one of our most unforgettable tours yet, we took a group of adventurous cyclists on a two-wheeled journey through remote villages, coastal tracks and highland plateaus – an immersive ride through the heart of this unique island nation.
Amazing landscapes of the Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park.
Dirty roads and boababs.
FLYING IN: FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Flying into Madagascar, you could be mistaken for thinking it’s a land of endless ups and downs. We landed at 5:30pm into one of the nicer airports we've seen in Africa, and were greeted with a glowing Malagasy sunset. Dezy, our man on the ground, met us with a warm welcome and gave a quick intro into the cultural and geographic makeup of the island.
We spent one night in Antananarivo (Tana), the capital, and then headed out to explore our route ahead of the tour group arriving in a few days time. The drive through the central region of the country revealed endless rice paddies – rice is life here, with most Malagasy eating it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. After a few days of scouting and servicing our bike fleet, we returned to Tana to meet the crew of excited riders joining us on this adventure.
Village life.
RIDING THE RED ISLAND
It felt so good to be back on the bikes. Our first ride kicked off after a visit to a local lemur sanctuary, we hit the roads that would carry us across some of Madagascar’s most awe-inspiring, and least travelled, landscapes.
Cycling through rolling countryside, we were met with shouts of “Salama!” (hello) from friendly locals and plenty of curious laughter as they watched us pedal past. We shared the roads with zebu, Madagascar’s native cattle, used for transport, meat, and even ceremonial purposes. 'Mora mora', meaning 'slowly, slowly,' became our motto, as we adapted to the island’s relaxed pace and rhythm.
The so-called ‘national highways’ here are an adventure all of their own. As Dezy put it: “dirty roads” – a wild mix of potholes, mud, ruts, sand, and the occasional truck axle-deep puddle. With the hotter days, it was hard work but incredibly rewarding, especially with every smile, wave, and roadside chat.
Lucky we were on bikes and could get around the truck that had a mishap!
Bruce and a baobab.
We also spent time exploring Antsirabe and Ampefy, where we visited markets and traditional craft workshops, and made stops at crater lakes, geysers, and lush highland forests. Though much of Madagascar’s native forest has been cleared for agriculture, particularly rice and grazing land for zebu. We took time to connect with the communities we passed through, and in some areas, even joined in their daily routines – sharing stories, learning customs, and forging bonds.
BEYOND THE BIKE
The ride itself was just one part of the experience. One of the trip’s highlights is a river cruise through Madagascar’s remote lowlands. With the bikes parked, we floated through an untouched landscape of waterfalls and wildlife. Evenings were spent watching sunsets over the river and dancing around the campfire to live Malagasy music supplied by the boat crew. We enjoyed incredible local food on the boat too. Our boat guide, Daddy (a legend in our books), led us through these wild places with a genuine love for nature and his homeland, and an energy that lifted the whole group.
ADVENTURE MEETS IMPACT
Madagascar is an incredibly welcoming country, but it also faces serious challenges – poverty being one of the biggest. With Escape Adventures, we aim to travel responsibly, supporting local guides, businesses, and sustainable initiatives wherever possible. Seeing the world and hopefully helping to make it a little better.
Baobab avenue.
Misty morning on the coast.
THE FINAL WORD
From the highlands to the coast, from the zebu trails to remote rivers, cycling Madagascar with Escape is not just a holiday – it's also an adventure in every sense of the word. It challenged us physically, connected us deeply with people and place, and reminded us of the joy of slow, purposeful travel.
We recommend that travellers take extra care in Tana, where pickpocketing and petty theft are more common, and spend most of your time out in the countryside, where the warmth and generosity of the Malagasy people truly shines.
And through it all, Ground Effect gear had our backs – proving once again why it’s our go-to choice for Escape guides and riders alike. Clare biked every day in her Martinis baggies: "they were awesome! Super easy to handwash and dried overnight". Ground Effect are super happy to chat through the kit you need for a cycle touring adventure.
Escape Adventures NZ started cycle tours in Madagascar in 2016 and aim to deliver safe, unforgettable cycle holidays off the beaten path. Escape can help you choose your next destination. For further inspo check out ex-Ground Effect staffer Jo's Escape Kenya/Tanzania trip story: Africa Five-0.
River campsite.